The Solo Travellers Guide to Self Drive Safari in South Africa

If you are going to embark on an African journey, you can do this through tour companies or on your own.  Traditionally, internationals always fall back on the tour companies to make all the arrangements for you which usually includes the high end lodges and private game reserves. You have a few stops and a variety of activities. In South African tours, there are often days in Cape Town (added expenses with the activities you choose to partake in and meals), maybe visit a vineyard or two, and some scenic road trips on the way to the game reserve.  You just pay the price and the plan is already made (plus those extra excursions you might be doing as previously noted).  And I get why this is this main way for the people who book them.  They lack information. 

I would likely do the same thing. In fact, I did the same thing.  And travelling into other African countries I would potentially rely on the same service because of my own lack of information.  But, what if you only want to go to see wildlife? What if you are like me and driving for days and seeing waterfalls and grape fields just is not what you are going to Africa for? Why does no one offer just days worth of game drives? Oh… I know… because it cost more money.

Now, they do give a nice variety that people enjoy. I don’t discredit that one bit. However there is a reason why they end the tour with the game drives. Its because they are the best part. Every person who leaves would tell me it wasn’t long enough, as it was always 2-3 night max. It left them wanting more, which is great for return business in theory. But for me, I need more. I want to feel fed. I was always content at the 8 day mark. Thats when I always feel like if I left, I would be happy. But I usually stay for 14. Thats my sweet spot. My happy place. To accommodate my personal preferences, but factoring in most people only getting 2 weeks of vacation at a time, is why I designed Solo Sister Safari and Rock n Roars safari to be 9-10 nights in the African wild. Best of all worlds.

Because I lived in South Africa and had to be the lonesome tourist on my leaves from work (which were 2 weeks at a time), I had to learn the ropes with no one holding my hand.  I had a borrowed map, a ride to the car rental place, and advice of the guides who do this style of vacation often.  What I found was there were not many international tourists doing what I was doing.  In fact, there was almost none.  Of course – international tourists lack the information.  They don’t have someone loaning them a map and offering tips like I did. They were the ones on the private land, paying big dollars for their 2 nights safari on a week long tour through vineyards.

Understand, I fully support the 5 star lodge safari experience.  I myself have experienced it numerous times thanks to my training and connections, and there is nothing more special.  And for those people who can afford that, get gifted that, or refuse to travel any other way – it is worth it.  No one ever leaves those places with any level of disappointment ever.  The experience the staff provide is exceptional and they employ some of the hardest working people I have ever encountered. But there are more people out there who cannot afford this than the ones who can. I am one of those people and my circle is also those people. So, maybe there is another way…

Let me first start by saying I believe most anyone can do a self drive safari so long as they fit the following:

• Are confident and aware.  This is not only awareness of your surroundings and places that can be intimidating like the airport, but also when alone in nature.  Awareness is essential.  Creatures large and small are everywhere.

• Are able to drive sitting in the right side of the car and in left lane.  North Americans beware.  Australians – you got this.  Now, before you freak out – there is a way of doing self drive where the fastest road is 50 km/hr and no one speeds (well, at least they are not supposed to). There is minimal cars so you pretty much can never screw it up. This is the way I am teaching you today.

• You are prepared to spend hours driving aimlessly enjoying the wide open spaces and will not be disappointed if one day you can not seem to find animals. And be comfortable being alone – or in closed spaces with your travel buddy if you brought one – for hours on end. I typically don’t even turn on music. I listen to nature as I meander my way.

So now you think you fit the bill.  Ok, good.  Now here is the caveat.  I don’t recommend self drive be your first embark on safari.  Heres why:

• If your first encounter with an elephant, big cat, or herd of buffalo is without previous information, guidance and education, how will you know what to do?  One wrong move and an elephant might mistake your car as a beach ball. I don’t say this to scare you or make you think all elephants are dangerous to all cars. But being uneducated can result in you creating a dangerous situation simply by not knowing better. It is a rare issue, but you just can not chance it. For your safety – it must be said.  I have moments on every trip where I need to assess the situation with particular animals, be it one elephant, or 200 buffalo, and choose my course of action appropriately.

• When you see weird behaviour from an animal, or don’t understand why they are doing what they are doing, you lose 85% of the value of the sighting.  It is the learning that goes with the behaviour that makes it special.  After my studies and certification to become a safari guide, I realized that the safari is nothing without the guiding. You don’t need guiding all the time, but you do need it to fully get lost in the wonderment of Africa and her beauty in the beginning. Otherwise it would be like eating cake with only being able to see it. You need the educational aspect to fully engage all 5 senses in your experience or you are doing yourself a grave disservice.

• When only in public parks, you will never experience tracking animals and off roading for the best predator/Big 5 experiences imaginable (like the epic lion encounter above) so you should have a previous private reserve experience which gives you that.

You are best to embark on self drive when:

• It is following a toured safari where you experienced the bush with a certified guide. Never take a self drive safari with no previous bush experience. You are robbing yourself of half the joy.

• As a follow up trip at a later date after having had a proper safari experience with Rock n Roars Tours or other creditable safari experience.

• You intend on utilizing the camps activities such as sunrise and sunset safaris, guided walks, or night safaris, instead of driving yourself. Do note that these come at a cost and are often very large trucks where it is first come first serve seating, views can be less than ideal, and based on my experience, the guides are not the top in the industry. Misinformation and sometimes questionable ethics have come into play. I am sure this is not the standard, but again, it is just what I personally have experienced. Perhaps being trained by the leaders in the industry raised my bar too high.

Self drive in Kruger National Park:

Fly in to O.R. Tambo Airport in Johannesburg.  

Book an accommodation in close proximity to the airport and ensure free shuttle service is available. I personally use Aero Guest Lodge (which includes free breakfast) or The Aviator Hotel OR Tambo.

At the airport you will need to call them.  They won’t just be there, but they will be there in reasonable time from when you contact them.  I usually go to the information desk and ask someone to help me (if someone is there).  I give them the phone number and they call for me. I don’t think that is their job, but they feel bad for me. If you do this, give them a little tip.  Or you can see about reaching them using what’s app and tune into the wifi.  

In the airport there are MTN and Voticom stores right off the main lobby area where you will come out. They are right across from the little coffee shop behind the information booth.  You can go there and buy a SIM card, minutes and data.  Do this and you can call your hotel yourself. I recommend this highly.  Tuning into free wifi anywhere is laughable. You do not want to roam data. You will want access to google maps, social media, and access to certain apps and of course, in case of emergency. If you need an ATM there is one on the second level above the lobby, but you pay huge exchange rates! Buy your money in advance in your own country. I discuss this in my other blog post. Or get a WISE prepaid card. This allows you to use it as a credit card in the currency you choose! Its brilliant! https://www.rocknroars.ca/booking-flights-and-navigating-airports-travel-tips-blog-post/.

When you are waiting for your shuttle, you will be given a location to go.  Sometimes it is right outside that main door (Aero shuttle was).  Once though I had to go to a stop which involved me walking about 20 meters outside, between buildings, but it was a direct paved path out the front doors (shuttle for Aviator).  Because it was a little intimidating being dark and late and stuff, and I carry a lot of gear, I did allow a gentleman to assist me with my luggage.  I chose him because I felt comfortable. You may be bombarded with offers to assist you. Just say no thank you. If you need help, you decide who helps you or ask information who might be good to ask.  I tipped my helper well because he waited with me until my shuttle was there. If you do this adventure after a Rock n Roars tour, this will not be an issue. We pick you up and meet you inside.

Provide a small tip to your shuttle driver when he drops you off ($1 per bag is reasonable).  Be sure to confirm with the desk when they need to be notified for your shuttle back based on your departure time.

The next day when you return to the airport you will catch a flight to Skukuza airport.  (Alternatively, you can grab a rental vehicle and drive yourself, but it is not something I would do as a solo, therefore I won’t recommend or go into any further details, although I have done the drive when not alone). So, when boarding your flight, note that these planes have less luggage allowances so be sure to check those restrictions before packing for your trip (20kg).  Also, the carry on space is tiny, so pack it wisely.  If you have to forfeit anything to get checked because it is too big (like regular full size carry on), ensure it is locked or zip-tied.   Do not have a pocket camera in a side pocket or something.  That is asking someone to take it. I ensure that all my valuables fit in my smallest carry on to come on board with me, even if that means my camera has to hang around my neck with a sweater draped over it. I am not paranoid – just overly protective of my baby. My 30L camera bag backpack fits above in these planes without issue..

When you arrive at Skukuza you will need to retrieve your luggage outside.  You simply walk through the airport and out the other side.   You will need to show your boarding pass to the men unloading the luggage so they match it to the tag on the bags. You will then go back in and check in at the conservation desk.  There will be a person standing there waiting for everyone who is not going to a private reserve to provide passports and room reservations for inside the park.  They will give you a permission slip essentially.  These are given because you are not going through a park entrance as you would if you were in a rental car driving to the park.  You are already in the park.  This form will be essential to turn in to the first nights accommodation reception desk.  

You will then visit the car rental place that you booked through.  They will get you set up.  Note, the airport is one small circle – like a mini mall with all the stores surrounding you.  It’s super adorable.  There is a gift shop and washrooms and the airport check in desk also. So, you will see the car rental place as soon as you walk in the airport. You also pay your conservation fees here (look for someone at a random podium desk). You must go see them as they will provide your entry and exit passes to the park. The free wifi is unreliable but there is signal if you want to do a check in with family on your data plan to say you made it to the bush. I often just sent quick messages to mom (since she liked to keep tabs on my whereabouts and was the one who would worry if I stopped messaging). Only at the main rest camps is this cell service even that available. Although occasionally in random spots service comes through. Once at a cheetah sighting in the middle of nowhere my mom checked in, so she got to see a cheetah live in real time!

You will see a line of safari guides or trackers waiting for their guests to arrive. These are local lodges such as Lion Sands and Sabi Sabi collecting their guests. They will head into private reserves in the Sabi Sands, where as you will head into the public park. So now you have checked over the car from the rental agent. You can get whatever model you like. For just me, I go with small. They are cheapest, best on fuel, and can turn around in a jiffy which is very handy when a lion walks out in front of you and heads the other direction. Note – there is optional windshield and tire insurance you can buy. You can get this if it makes you feel better, but typically speaking, the roads are not hazardous to drive on and no one drives over 40km on gravel so windshield chips are next to impossible. Now its time to get in your car – remember you drive in the left lane.  Leaving the car lot you turn right.  Follow this road 2km, and at the T intersection, turn right.  You will cross a one lane bridge so take note if someone is on the bridge. There are passing indents so you don’t have to wait the whole time. Just take your time in all your driving decisions and you will be fine.

Note: most all the rental cars are manual transmission. Only once did I get automatic. If you are unfamiliar with these, read car options carefully so you find automatic. Shifting gears with the left hand is awkward but you get used to it. And if you are like me, you will trigger wiper blades every time you want to signal to turn. Everything is backwards!

You are now officially on safari.  Maybe you will see hippos and crocodiles in the river as you cross.  Probably seen a monkey by the airport, and maybe some impala already.  As you reach all the intersections you will see stone road signs.  These tell you the road number which you can correlate with a map.  If you have already been on safari with me, we already got you a great map and you know exactly the best route to travel. If not you will follow the signs and have a google maps print off with you just to get you started. The road signs are enough, but the sense of security of a map is always nice. It tell you the direction to all the nearby or destination camps, as well as points of interest followed the number of kilometres away they are.  Google maps can help sometimes also, but don’t leave it on for no reason and eat your data. I used it once only in the park when I feared taking the wrong turn and going the long way and my fuel tank was low. It was my safety blanket.

You will find the road signs super helpful so if you ever wonder how far or close you are to camp, check the signs.  But with speeds of 30-50km/hr,  25 km can take a long time.  Especially if you have many cool sightings.  You can spend 4 hours going that far if you want.  So, be aware of the time verses distance always.  You cannot be 50km from camp and only have half hour til gate closing.  You will be fined at camp for late arrival, or not get in.  You will end up speeding which is very dangerous.  Animals learn the speed of the vehicles and will misjudge their time.  You do not want to be the tourist to kill an animal or bird in Africa for speeding.  Police do patrol and the last thing you need is to be international and fined for anything. Note if you ever see anything on the road – they keep the roads in immaculate condition.  Seeing something might actually be something.  A bird, a dung beetle, a snail, a tortious (especially if it rains), a snake, a chameleon, or cool bug. Do not run anything over!!!  Even dung because it might be full of other critters having lunch.

To begin, you can follow the signs to Skukuza. Note that the Skukuza airport and Skukuza Day Use Area is not where you are going and they are listed on signs separately. You want simply Skukuza which is the rest camp. This will allow you access to their shop which has a huge selection of items (food, gifts, maps, liquor, memory cards, snacks etc) as well as restaurants. There is a take out and eat in Cattle Baron and the food is really good. There is outdoor sitting areas to eat and overlook the Sabi River.

It is a bit tricky to understand the weird traffic circles and how to get in and out of Skukuza when following the signs for the gift shop, but again – go slow and be thoughtful in your choices and you will be fine. Once you get all geared up, you can drive up to reception and check their sighting board to start your drive and choose your route.

While on drive you will need to be aware of certain encounters you will surely face. The main one being how to drive around elephants. Because it is something I take very seriously, and know how intimidating it can be, I will leave this for you to learn in person and not address it here.

When you arrive at your rest camp there will be signs indicating where reception is.  This is where you go.  They may take your passport, printed reservation you received on email, and conservation fees for your time at their location.  If you are going to have more than a week in Kruger, then do the math because getting a Wild Card will likely be a better price than daily conservation fees.  This gives you access for a year at any National Park run by Sans Park in South Africa so very handy if you plan to return within the next 12 months.  So it might be cheaper than daily rate, gets you checked in places faster, and saves that expense if you plan a trip the next year… which is entirely possible.  On a Solo Sister Safari or Rock n Roars tour, we will include these daily fees. Do not lose any of the paperwork you get.  If you decide to leave the park for an adventure drive (although I don’t know why you would – but I have done it so it can happen I suppose), you need the reservation info.  It will be stamped that you are leaving and need to be shown upon your return through the entrance gate. 

So we are now checked in.  They will give you a map of the camp (like the Skukuza one earlier) and a key for your room. You can get settled in, discover where your washrooms are if you are in communal kitchen/bathroom style accommodations.  I suggest do everything you need to do in daylight until you learn your way around.  Some camps have restaurants and small stores where you can get groceries and snacks and drinks.  Note the gate entrance times.  This will tell you when you can leave every day and when you need to return by.  I suggest being ready to go at gate opening time.  This is when the best predator sightings can happen as they are still wandering around.  You can partake in on site safaris which leave earlier in the morning.  I think they cost typically around $70 pp.  I like going on my own.  If I want to stop for a butterfly or bird I can.  If I want 40 minutes at a watering hole to watch hippos I can.  

At the designated rest camps and picnic stops there are sighting boards.  They show current day and previous day.  If you watch these you can gauge areas where the Big 5 are being spotted.  Sometimes you get lucky and sightings are active when you get there.  Sometimes not.  I have spent days chasing other peoples sightings when I should have just went where I wanted to go to begin with because I could not verify any of those colourful dots! Use these only for predators. You will see elephant everywhere, as well as buffalo.   

So it is that simple.  Thats how you will spend your day.  You can stop and ask people questions if you think they see something that you don’t.  South Africans are super friendly and very helpful.  I always have people stop when I am alone and pulled over just making sure I am okay when they see I am a solo girl.  It is quite sweet.  I find the safari drivers can be a bit bullish at sightings because they are fighting for views that translate into tips.  But not all guides will be this way. Many are very cooperative even to the self drivers, since they might be having a quiet drive and need your insider information. The South African self drivers are also very nice. Now, they won’t  necessarily move out of their spot to help you out, but they will smile and wave at you before turning back leaving you in their blind spot.  

When you check out of your camp, there is a big key box that hangs at the exit of the camp.  Drop your key there.  No need to check out.  If you arrive at the next camp and you have the old key, turn it in to the reception right away so they can notify the other camp.  Yes, this tip is from experience.  When you are on your last night in Kruger, you need to get reception to stamp your receipt that you will show the people at the airport.  This is how they know you paid your fees while you were there.  Do not forget!

So, it time to leave.  You get the stamp, you drop the key, and you make your way back to the airport.  Be at least an hour early.  They will leave without you if everyone is there, boarded and ready early.  No, not a tip from experience.  But ALMOST a tip from experience.  Can I help it that Cheetah always find me at the last minute?

Note – I usually leave a few dollars for housekeepers who have been visiting my room every day. Or leftover food that I didn’t eat ect. They appreciate anything. If you can let them know it is there so they know they can have it, even better.

So you will fly back to OR Tambo.  If you have a late flight, take the latest Skukuza flight back to the airport to avoid layover time and increase safari time (2 a day to Johanesburg).  If you cannot get back in time for a flight home, then use the same overnight method as you did when you arrived.  Now you will have that experience under your belt so it will be a piece of cake.  If you wanted to add Cape Town to your experience, you can fly there instead of O.R.Tambo and build a new itinerary.

Thats it!  You did it!  All that is left is deciding the camps you want to stay at and the type of accommodation you prefer.  My tidbits in this regard:

Lower Sabi – the most popular and it sells out early.  It is the only camp with a single person hut (4 units).  I have stayed in all 4 of them many times.  I love them.  They are the cheapest form of overnight stay for a solo traveller at around $40-$45 a night. 

If you are room sharing you can get a 2 or 3 room hut for about double that.  This is also the same price as the canvas tents.  They do not have these in Lower Sabie, but they are in Crocodile Bridge and Tamboti. 

I like Crocodile Bridge because of location.  This is great cheetah and lion area.   Tamboti is a satellite location, meaning there is nothing but tents and communal kitchen and bathrooms.  It is in a different area, close to Orpen which is the sister camp where the reception and store are.  When staying there you must factor time to backtrack to Tamboti after going to Orpen to check in. I like to stay there a couple days because once up there, you will never make it back to Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabi camps and back if you plan on stopping at animal sightings.  This is good lion territory.  Some big prides linger in these areas.   Tamboti also comes with visitors.  Every night and maybe at dawn, the local honey badger will come to dig through your garbage.  It will get in there no matter what you do.  If you have food scraps it will dig them out.  Not much you can do but stay out of its way.  They are perhaps the most vicious of Africas creatures and are afraid of nothing!!!

I have also had a genet come say hello, hyenas on the other side of a fence in the dry river bed, as well as other little critters. A troop of baboons resides there and they warn of their aggressive behaviour so all eyes on deck when loading and unloading the car.  And never leave car windows down! Ever! Even if it is just for a second at a view point. A monkey will jump in your car and steal your bag of pears. Yes, shamefully a tip from experience.  I have also stayed at Bergendal (when renting a cottage with more people) and Pretoriskop, which is the oldest and most affordable of the camps.  It is a little less animal activity around there, but I did have great sightings for the ones I did have, like an active hyena den that made its way to the road side.  

All camps have a variety of room options.  Huts are nice.  Everything has A/C except tents, but they don’t need them.  There is a fan and air comes through nice in the evening.  Maybe a bit cold if you go in July/August.  All places have fridges.  Most rooms have sinks except the tents. If you want to try our bungalows or the fancier tents, there are options but it means spending more money. They will have kitchen features and private washrooms.

My favourite camps and the features at them (all but Tamboti on this list has fuel stations):

Lower Sabi – 1 man huts are awesome but they also have 2, 3, 4 and maybe even 5 people huts.  I stay in 2 man often as well just based on availability. Love their restaurant Mug N Bean.  Look up and you might see the 2 barn owls that live in the thatch roof. Great coffee options.  Like frozen Frappuccino ones too!  Happy in a cup. But take a stainless steel straw. Paper straws and frozen drinks don’t mix.  I eat there once a day as my main meal so long as I am in its proximity at some point, although my favourite stuff always gets removed from the menu.  Beautiful Sabi River view.  Great sightings there. Sunset dam just a km away.  Seen some crazy stuff there.  Laundry facilities.  Handy if you are staying for 2 weeks, but often dryer breaks or isn’t working so be prepared to hang clothes on the line or do like me and hang in your room.  Things dry quick in Africa.  

Crocodile Bridge – Love staying in canvas tents. No restaurant.  Best gift shop (they have the only proper one right beside reception).  Carvings and everything else.  Its wonderful.  Coffee stand and small shop (liquor, snacks, few gift and groceries). Amazing sightings.

Satara – Love the Pizza place!  And a couple other restaurants and coffee shop.  White hot chocolate YUM.  This is my restaurant stop when I am in the area or staying at Tamboti.  Satara is more expensive as it is larger units with more features.  I like cheap.  So, I have never stayed right there but I always stop.

Tamboti – tented camp, 2-4 beds.  Fridge, fan, honey badger.  A bit of a nature walk to the washroom – very similar to typical campgrounds in North America.  Just have a good flashlight and learn your way in daylight if you are not right by the facilities..  Might see a nocturnal creature like White tailed mongoose, genet,  or bush baby.

Letaba – This is venturing far up now, getting into a new landscape.  More elephant prides and bigger elephants in general.  A few different antelope you might not have seen in the bush veld like Red Hartebeest.  Still predators but not as common.  Letaba is a nice camp, similar to Crocodile Bridge where you stay in tents.  They have laundry.  They have the elephant museum which is a must see if you are there.  So much good information in there and the tusks are out of this world. This building is under high security for the legendary Big Tuskers retire here to educate and raise awareness to poaching. Expect to spend at least an hour here. More if you are very keen on knowing everything!

Pretoriskop – I like to stay here for affordable accommodation when my faves like Crocodile Bridge and Lower Sabie are booked.  It keeps me down on the top end of Kruger where predators are quite common.  Longer gaps in driving before you see animals though, but typically with fewer cars. Nice shop. Good restaurant.

Skukuza – Well rounded camp.  Very popular.  All kinds of accommodation.  Great services – gas station, big gift shop (huge), groceries, great restaurants, doctors office (though I have never needed it), post office, river view.  Sightings boards are really useful at this camp because it is a major hub for safari vehicle hires.  The downside is if you are heading out around 1pm, and going to where the sightings are marked, you will likely have 15 trucks hot on your trail.  Avoid the typical safari times if you are near Skukuza.  Or if they are all at a stop – pass them and move on if there is something noted to be further up the road.  Get there first! Cars cannot see over trucks.

Ok, that about wraps it up.  You book accommodation online at the sans park website found here.  It can be confusing at first but if you are planning a trip with me first, I will help you through all of these steps.  I typically book to have reservations in accessible camps to ensure I have somewhere logistically realistic to stay.  I continue to check back every day to see if something pops open that I like better.  It usually does so then you can swap.  If this sounds like something you are interested in doing, I do recommend this as an alternative extra week if you can tag on the backside of a Solo Sister Safari or RnR tour.  You will be comfortable and confident by that time and I will walk you through all the steps in making it happen.  We will sort out the best plan to get you to a car rental place if we need to.

Self drive is super fun.  It is time to really connect in your own silence, with windows down, and nature immersed everywhere.  You can find a viewpoint where you can leave the car, sit and look at the horizon and just contemplate life.  It is the best solo moments you may ever have, even if you are with someone.  Sidenote: I never really ‘selfie’ alone, or take random snapshots. So thank goodness on this trip I guided someone here and took some pics along the way! Because alone with camera in my face pointed outward is typically how you find me in Africa!

So now get planning or booking your SSS or RnR photo tour! Africa is waiting! She needs us!

Useful apps to download if you are going to Kruger National Park: